"PARIS — Even during a period of rising food prices and economic uncertainty, Damien Bignon, a poultry farmer in the Paris region, cannot meet the demand from local markets and stores for his organic eggs.
At the Ferme des Beurreries near Feucherolles, west of the capital, Mr. Bignon employs five people overseeing 3,000 chickens on 432 acres. He also produces organic cereals for his own feed and other clients and wheat to sell to a neighboring mill.
Mr. Bignon thinks he could comfortably expand to 12,000, matching the number of chickens on the farm in 1990 before its conversion to organic operations. But he is determined to manage carefully any growth to maintain quality, keep customers satisfied and not crowd out other local farmers. He charges 2 euros ($2.82) for a half dozen eggs — about twice the cost of factory-farmed eggs at a French supermarket."
Matthew Saltmarsh reports for the New York Times May 23, 2011.